It guides the brand’s activities to help it meet the challenges of tomorrow, and to develop and guarantee reliable, sustainable products of exceptional quality for its customers. To satisfy its own requirements and those of its stakeholders, the brand strives to improve its watches, its environmental performance and its impact on society every day by continuously updating its industrial and commercial practices. It invests significant resources in achieving these goals, aligning the company with the principles of a circular economy and attempting to systematize eco-design practices internally.
Our strategic commitments
Limit the environmental impact of products and manufacturing processes throughout their life cycle by incorporating eco-design criteria.
— Train 100% of creators, designers and industrialization managers in eco-design. Promote innovation for sustainability throughout the value chain.
— Launch a cross-disciplinary Rolex platform. Ensure the company systematically engages with the circular economy.
— Systematize direct distribution.
— Reduce the quantities of raw materials used.
Innovation
Forging new paths
Rolex’s reputation has largely been built on its ability to innovate. From the world’s first waterproof wristwatch (Oyster) in 1926, through the invention of the self-winding system in 1931 (Perpetual rotor) to its new-generation mechanical movements, the brand has continued to perfect watchmaking expertise. It has also filed more than 600 patents.
Research and development
Alongside the group’s other entities, the Research and Development Division plays an important role in sustainability. Each improvement strengthens the watches’ performance and reliability so that they remain functional and repairable for life. The division also contributes to the selection of more responsible materials – whether for the watch or its accessories – to reduce Rolex’s impact on the environment.
Bringing together people with a wide range of expertise – physicists, chemists, mechanical and microtechnical engineers, material engineers, tribologists, statisticians, and so on – this division has split its activities into four units: innovation, materials and technology, watch (case and bracelet) and movement.
Focus
Collaborative initiative with EPFL to imagine the factory of the future
A joint initiative launched by Rolex and the École polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), the ‘Precision Sustainable Manufacturing’ Grand Challenge encompasses several projects with the same goal: to imagine the factory of the future by integrating sustainability into all the processes and materials used to manufacture Rolex products. The brand’s new production site in Bulle will incorporate the results obtained through this initiative.
Four work themes have been selected: materials and methods, energy, data-based manufacturing and human-centric manufacturing. They will be addressed one after the other so that each theme can benefit from the conclusions of the previous ones.
In 2023, the first challenge focused on materials and methods. One of the ongoing projects involves using theoretical data to model the mechanical properties of new alloys, notably to reduce the number of practical tests required and thus save time and resources.
Focus
Ekipa open innovation incubator
Working with the ekipa open innovation incubator, Rolex participated in the launch of an innovation competition that encourages students, professionals and start-ups to collaborate with recognized companies to generate ideas for a more sustainable future. The challenge launched by Rolex was to make certain electroplating operations1 more environmentally friendly. Following a call for ideas, Rolex received nine proposals that were evaluated internally on their technical feasibility, process innovation and sustainability gains. After four weeks’ development, Rolex chose a silver electroplating solution with lower impact and less waste. This solution, developed by a European start-up, could eventually eliminate the need for the cyanide baths used in today’s process.
¹Electroplating is a process that uses electrodeposition to cover an object with a fine layer of metal.
Eco-friendly presentation boxes
Since 2020, Rolex has been developing a new presentation box with improved environmental credentials for the delivery of its watches to its end customers.
Consisting of a main structure made of wood (45%) and various components made of cardboard and moulded cellulose (31%), this new presentation box reduces its share of petroleum- based plastic from 92% to just 6%. This represents a total reduction of 500 tonnes of plastic per year.
The introduction of this new eco-friendly presentation box guarantees a 50% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions related to its life cycle. Most of these savings are achieved in the materials production phases (–46%). The reduced (–12%) lowers transport-related CO2 emissions (–2%), while its end-of-life disposal also enables an added reduction in CO2 emissions (–2%). Mass production of this new box is scheduled to begin in 2024.
Technical advances
Permanently eliminating lead
Rolex will permanently replace all the alloys containing lead that it uses in the movements of its watches. This industrial shift towards a 100% lead- free movement started in late 2018 and is accelerating as each calibre receives functional approval. This gradual approach makes it possible to progressively replace movements without jeopardizing production and avoids significant disposal of waste from polluted components. This project continues on from the work carried out on our dials, which have not included lead since 2019, in anticipation of legislative developments in this area. Regarding movement components, approximately 75% of the volume represented by these parts does not currently contain lead. The lead content in the remaining 25% is less than 4%, in line with the current European regulation (REACH).
From 2025 onwards, the goal is that 100% of new movements brought to market by Rolex will be made with lead-free alloys due to the environmental and health impacts of this material.
Study on replacing mineral oils with vegetable oils
Used in manufacturing processes to remove metal filings and reduce friction and heat during metal machining, cutting fluids are currently being studied to extend their lifespan and reduce the quantities required. Alongside this project, Rolex is currently exploring solutions, in partnership with suppliers, to replace cutting fluids of mineral origin with new-generation products – synthetic vegetable-oil esters – for all its production equipment.
Synthesized from a vegetable oil and an alcohol, these new cutting fluids have scientifically proven lubricating properties and good resistance to oxidation. This solution is still not widely used in the industry due to its high cost. Rolex is also taking on a pioneering role in this field, using palm oil-free vegetable bases and raw materials sourced exclusively in Europe. A comparative life-cycle analysis with a vegetable-based oil that meets the qualification criteria is currently underway.
Eco-design
Reducing the environmental impact of products
With a view to further reducing the environmental impact of its activities, Rolex is committed to integrating sustainability into the design of its projects. Eco-design principles notably affect the selection, development and optimization of materials, as well as services, manufacturing processes and performance, and quality management. This broad, cross-disciplinary approach relies on life cycle analysis to better understand and target opportunities for improvement.
Life cycle analysis
Life cycle analysis (LCA) measures the environmental impact of a product, process or service throughout its life cycle. This method has been widely proven in various fields and Rolex uses it to guide its choices in project design and to identify areas for improvement. The life cycle analysis of a product makes it possible to reconstruct the path from raw material extraction to recycling, through its manufacture, transport, distribution and use. Governed by international standards, this method quantifies and assesses the overall impact that a product can have on several environmental indicators, such as climate change, land resources, ecosystem quality or human health. These analyses can be used to approve choices or initiate change, whether regarding watches or related products, or in the context of new manufacturing processes.
For example, Rolex applied this method to develop new presentation boxes for its watches. An LCA also guided the selection of new materials to create the window displays used to present products.
Initial studies indicate that the quality of LCAs depends on the accuracy of the data used and the hypotheses chosen. They therefore require close collaboration between divisions (Purchasing, Support and Infrastructure, Production, Commercial, Research and Development, Impact and Sustainability). This collective effort makes it possible to consolidate the data needed for the various calculations as effectively as possible and to create a relevant reference framework.
Rolex’s life cycle analysis process, detailing steps from inventory analysis to improvement and optimization.
Circular economy
Recycling all production waste
Recycling materials or residues used in production has great potential for the company to reduce its carbon emissions. For Rolex, this represents a real opportunity to take action to lessen its impact upstream of its supply chain.
With this in mind, the brand has been committed for several years to an initiative that helps recycle all its production waste. This particularly applies to metals such as gold, brass, copper, platinum or steel. For example, in 2023, recycling 1,395 kg of tungsten carbide at a cutting tool supplier made it possible to reuse all the tungsten present in the tools.
Rolex has set up a ‘material analysis’ programme to assess recycling opportunities. Ongoing work is focused on how petroleum-based elements can be replaced by other materials, such as bio-based polymers. The brand is also working on developing recycling and manufacturing technologies, while setting up direct distribution between production waste and raw materials.
At the same time, Rolex is taking steps to recycle and treat its waste. The brand has therefore acquired an incinerator to reduce waste containing precious materials (mainly gold) to ash and thus optimize its recovery. This equipment ensures optimum recovery of waste containing precious metals.
Using recovered industrial gold
Derived from gold waste reclaimed in the production workshops, recovered industrial gold undergoes specific refining before it is reinjected into the watch manufacturing process.
Over the past decade, Rolex has introduced ways of limiting the losses associated with the use of precious materials as much as possible. A team of around 40 people is tasked with limiting these losses and has specific IT tools for this purpose. The brand also works with its suppliers to design equipment that makes it easier for operators to recover waste.
Gold stamping, machining and polishing generate a wide array of production waste, such as cuttings (gold alloy scrap that does not require any particular treatment before reuse); metal filings (gold alloy waste mixed with oil that requires spinning and washing before reuse); dust (present, for example, in cleaning cloths and polishing brushes); and fumes (which contain gold particles that can be recovered when cloths and brushes are incinerated).
Every gramme of gold that can be tracked down and recovered in production is extremely valuable because it represents one less gramme that has to be sourced from a mine, for example.
Rolex has a foundry that allows it to make its own castings reusing cuttings. The aim is to set up the most direct distribution possible to avoid the use of energy- intensive refining facilities, losses related to the refining process, and the impact of logistics.
As for the metal filings, Rolex melts and shot-peens them, then delivers them to the refiners, who ensure they are homogeneous and identify their degree of purity (fine gold content).
In addition, Rolex has a furnace that enables it to convert certain waste into ash, in order to determine its gold content and minimize the weight to be transported for refining (a process during which the precious metals are extracted and reconcentrated in the form of pure metals). The brand itself recovers the gold dust present in the fumes.
These various initiatives have halved losses in the space of 10 years (0.4% in 2014; less than 0.2% in 2023).
Recycling Oystersteel
To reduce the carbon footprint associated with its Oystersteel supply chain, Rolex has launched a pilot project for recycling its own production waste in collaboration with its main supplier. As this has a higher content of alloy elements than conventional waste, its reintegration into primary castings makes it possible to significantly reduce the environmental impact. In this context, a total of eight test castings have been made since December 2022, improving the recycling rate by 10 points and reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 35%. The aim is now to achieve a 30% reduction in emissions by 2025.
Focus
Cutting tool packaging
To foster circularity in its waste streams, Rolex wants to give a new lease of life to the packaging plastic used for its cutting tools. This project aims to recover the packaging used and transport it in a closed loop to suppliers, who grind the material down and reinject it into the manufacturing of new packaging (recycling and reuse).
The recovery flow set up with three partners in Geneva and Bienne has already enabled 10% of the packaging to be reused.
By 2025, the goal is to recycle 90% of the non-reused packaging by grinding it down and reinjecting the material for the creation of new packaging.
Customer satisfaction
A relationship built on trust
In order to deepen the relationship of trust that it has always cultivated with its customers, Rolex has set maximum standards of excellence in all areas. This is why the brand pays as much attention to the quality of its products as to their reliability. Today, this ambition for excellence is evolving to incorporate topics surrounding sustainability into its business practices, from production processes to the rationale behind its commercial deployment. The result is extremely strict quality control and a system of irreproachable guarantees and maintenance services. “The company is also working on the construction of a new production site in Bulle to support its growth and accelerate its response to rising demand.”
Green seal
Since 2015, all Rolex watches have been ‘Superlative Chronometer’ certified, a status of excellence symbolized by a green seal. This exclusive title confirms that the watch has successfully undergone a series of particularly demanding tests carried out by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria, in addition to its movement being officially certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
This seal also attests to the compliance of all Rolex watches with its established quality and performance standards: precision, waterproofness, power reserve, self-winding, resistance to magnetism, reliability and durability.
Guarantees
New Rolex watches have a five-year guarantee, while reconditioned and second-hand watches have a two-year guarantee. Rolex provides replacement spare parts for up to 35 years after the production of a model ends. Following this period, the brand manufactures specific replacement parts, as required.
35 years
Availability of spare parts for after-sales service
To benefit from the Rolex guarantee, watches – new or second-hand – must be purchased from Official Rolex Retailers. Thanks to their skill and technical expertise, they guarantee the authenticity of each watch and ensure it functions correctly year after year. Specific maintenance programmes have also been established to service and replace components over time. Original spare parts are distributed from Geneva to all service centres around the world.
After-sales service
Rolex watches are designed to last. From the beginning, the brand set up a one-of-a-kind after-sales service with the aim of ensuring that products that last as long as claimed can be serviced worldwide, while limiting transport and processing times. This underlying demand for quality has allowed the brand to guarantee, from the very start, that all its watches are expertly serviced, and that their full performance is preserved over time.
3,550
People employed in after-sales service, including 1,100 in affiliates
450,000
Watches reconditioned every year
Focus
After-sales service watchmaking training programme
Launched in 2015, the After-Sales Service Watchmaker training programme aims to give young adults all over the world the chance to develop expertise in the after-sales service watchmaker profession. This 18-month training programme teaches the servicing of Rolex products and, secondly, provides access to development programmes. In 2023, 74 future watchmakers followed this training course worldwide, with 19 of them completing it in February. This brings the number of watchmakers trained during the year under review to 61. In parallel, the commercial teams have launched a process to standardize this programme. Ultimately, all Rolex affiliates will base their training on a single programme, Rolex Watchmaker Training, to which two complementary specific courses will be added: watchmaking operator and finisher.
Focus
Rolex Certified Pre‑Owned programme
Rolex ensures that its customers can have long-term confidence in its products because its watches retain their value over time and can be safely resold with all their original qualities intact.
To this end, the brand launched the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme in December 2022 to give customers the chance to purchase second-hand models, which are certified and guaranteed by the brand, from its Official Retailers. These watches enjoy all the quality criteria and requirements that characterize the brand’s products. They also have a two-year international guarantee. In practice, Rolex retailers can now buy used watches on the market, before entrusting them to the brand for certification. The maintenance programme is then implemented either by Rolex or an Official Retailer prior to resale in their store and on their website. This initially commercial initiative is now fully in line with the brand’s approach to sustainability, which aims to give its products already in circulation on the market a second lease of life, with the idea of conserving and servicing them, and guaranteeing that they function properly over time.
